old nvme-cli does not like our nvme?

i noticed in an Ubuntu 22.04 today on dogfood that:

ubuntu@large-ixi:~$ nvme list
Node                  SN                   Model                                    Namespace Usage                      Format           FW Rev  
--------------------- -------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- -------------------------- ---------------- --------
/dev/nvme0n1                                                                        1           0.00   B /   0.00   B      1   B +  0 B   
/dev/nvme1n1                                                                        1           0.00   B /   0.00   B      1   B +  0 B   

... well, that's wrong. the namespaces have more than 0 bytes, the serial number is not actually blank, and the sectors are most certainly not 1 byte. i should mention: Linux is fine with the disks; this VM booted off of /dev/nvme0 and that's where my shell is!

the nvme here is nvme 1.16, whereas at least by 24.04 the CLI tool has been updated to 2.8 with an explicit note of libnvme version 1.8. so this is probably just that the older nvme (or libnvme?) do not like our already known-to-be-funky NVMe devices with null model number and null-padded serials.

once we've got #790 sorted (and/or some form of #1004) we should take a look at this again and see if the number make sense. if time permits, figuring out exactly how we're confusing nvme wouldn't hurt!

Start by reproducing nvme list on Ubuntu 22.04 with nvme 1.16, then compare its output with nvme 2.8 and libnvme 1.8 on newer Ubuntu. Revisit this after #790 and/or #1004; done means explaining the incompatibility or producing correct namespace sizes, serial numbers, and format values.