Console: use * metadata syntax when creating insert/select/update metadata

### Is your proposal related to a problem?

Currently console allows users to toggle all columns for insert/select/update permissions.
This is a shortcut that toggles all column. This does not allow a true "all columns" setting, as future columns will need to be added.

### Describe the solution you'd like

The [metadata supports](https://hasura.io/docs/latest/graphql/core/api-reference/metadata-api/permission/#metadata-pg-create-select-permission) a `*` character in place of the column list.
Allowing this metadata be created would allow users to future proof permissions somewhat,
as it means users would not need to add new columns explicitly, or remove old columns for deletion.

This setting should be explicit, and the implications should be explained to the user in the console itself,
to avoid users accidentally exposing more data than intended.

Start with the console's insert, select, and update column-permission controls, then read the linked metadata PostgreSQL permission documentation. Done means users can explicitly choose * for the column list and the console explains that this includes future columns and may expose more data.

Written by the indexing model from the issue text.